27 marzo 2007

El taxi de la Constituyente



Por poco no agarramos ese taxi. Menos mal que rectificamos a tiempo, y nos montamos en ese vehículo, con un conductor inimaginable, y para variar, con dos constituyentes: una en la comisión del ejecutivo, y otra de hidrocarburos. Y por las casualidades de esta vida, las dos eran masistas, y yo sin conocerlas.
La vista a Potosi fue fugaz, llegué el viernes por la tarde en un taxi colectivo por unos 30 bolivianos, y el sábado al medio día, estaba rumbo a Sucre, a mi casita. Potosí, tan lindo como siempre, con calles coloridas que no quieren descolonizarse. A pesar de sus 4000 metros de altura sobre el nivel de la mar (1), y su correspondiente falta de aire, da gusto pasear por esta ciudad, tan decorada como jodida por su Cerro Rico (2). El precioso Cerro Rico presentaba la vetas de plata más importantes del mundo, en el momento de la Colonia española por América Latina, y de ahí, viene esa expresión tan conocida por muchos, y sufridas por otros; “Vale mas que un Potosí”. Apartemos esta historia por el momento, puesto que acá no me conviene reincidir mucho en ella, saldría perdiendo. Además, los originarios (y también los que no lo son) ya hacen bastante por seguir recordándola. Sigo contando. De Potosí, todo fantástico, incluido la hacienda que visité a unos 45 minutos de la ciudad. Una hacienda que muestra las diferencias de Bolivia, donde todavía puedes escuchar hablar de servidumbre con una naturalidad pasmosa. Esta estancia colonial muestra lo que fue y sigue siendo lo que quizás algún día será un Estado Plurinacional. Una finca de la nobleza donde alguna vez durmió el libertador Sucre, y muchos otros condes y marqueses de pacotilla de la época. Ahora, esta sobreviviente de la reforma agraria está gestionada por un facistoide racista inaguantable, ególatra y despreciable, que desincentiva a disfrutarla.
Pero volvamos al taxi, que llega lo divertido de este episodio. Dos horas y media en taxi, desde los 4000 metros de Potosí hasta los 2800 de Sucre. Todo comenzó con el tropiezo fortuito con las constituyentes, y sus típicos lamentos: “no nos pagan los viáticos”, “no nos atienden los suficiente”, y mucho mas. Luego, el taxista entró en acción cuando una de las constituyentes de las ganas que le tiene a la policía, y se puso a contar anécdotas de la relación de su taxi con la autoridad (no originaria). Entre tanto, se decidió que la música que nos iba a acompañar hasta no sé que cruce, era ABBA, nada mas y nada menos que un grupo sueco en territorio andino. Luego, tocó lo descolonizado, un poco de Calamarca. Pero la conversación no dejaba de fluir, e iba tocando todos los temas de actualidad, o mejor dicho, de la actualidad de estos personajes. Las constituyentes seguían afirmando que todo se solucionaba con algún artículo de la nueva Constitución. Se percibía ese distanciamiento derivado de su nuevo papel, de creerse estrictos representantes del poder constituyentes. Lo que es lo mismo, caer en las mismos defectos de la democracia representativa liberal: la lejanía del representante al representado. El taxista seguía con las suyas. Repasaba a todas las cholitas que había en el camino, dejando piropos al viento. Mostraba dotes para ser el máximo exponente del turismo boliviano, hablando de sus peripecias con turistas, y su manera de convencerlos para que se quedaran, Criticaba a los bolivianos que salían a España. Insistía con los defalques de la policía y fuerzas armadas bolivianas. Disertaba muy correctamente sobre la coca buena y la coca mala, y dejaba bien clarito que la coca para acullicar procedía del los yungas, mientras que la coca del Chapare “es para lo que sabemos”. Refutaba, con argumentos, la hipótesis del carácter adictivo de la hoja de coca de la constituyente médica, que paradójicamente forma parte de la comisión del Poder Ejecutivo. Esto de la Asamblea Constituyente no hay quien lo entienda. El taxista demostraba cada vez mas que podría y debiera haber sido elegido como constituyente, porque carisma no le faltaba, poder de convicción tampoco, y mucho menos sentido del humor. En el camino, los temas se entremezclaban, y la constituyente del MAS podía tanto defender el aborto como defender la castración química para los violadores. La otra constituyente representante de la excesiva cuota de “empanadas” que tiene Bolivia, y que por supuesto, presentes en la Asamblea Constituyente.
Un taxi donde viajaba un popurrí de ideas, bien desordenadas, colonizadas y descolonizadas, acertadas y desafortunadas, tan surrealista como reales, que sin duda, reflejan lo que es este proceso constituyente.

1 Connotación de alguien que quiere ser pescador
2 Alardeando de mi falso conocimiento aymara, podríamos llamarlo Sumac Orko.
NOTA: Las fotos son robadas a una amiga, Sandra Flores

35 Comments:

Blogger Tatiana said...

Que comentar?, pues nada...amplio si se quiere. Imagenes vienen a mi esperiencia boliviana:
1. La Paz...plaza San Pedro..frente a frente un punk con sus cueros todos tachados y los pelos llegando hasta el cielo...de frente a un tipico boliviano tradicional..el intercambio que sucito curiosos como yo: de frente 2 posturas distintas defendiendo el derecho a ser lo que son...interesante, nuca antes visto por mi, no por lo menos de esa manera. Es mas puro y por lo tanto mejor.
2. Un cura parraco en Potosi...impresionante este curita que profesa una religion que no son lo que tendrian que ser (como todas las religiones), hablaba en quechua ante sus escasos pero compenetrados fieles: revolucion, maltrato, explotacion. Se puede decir que el cura aporto lo suyo...unas palabras que amplian mentes.
3. En un colectivo, un señor deseñorado que me hablaba...debe ser lindo vivir en Argentina no? No es como Bolivia, aqui todo es dificil. Le encuentro razón pero tampoco es tan diferente.
4. Un chico en un tren que añoraba mis posibilidades...viajar por un mes en Bolivia. Definitivamente lo mucho o lo poco depende de para quien.
5. La niña que vendia chupetín, las adolesecntes vendedoras sin fin, las niñas madres en San Jose, la profesion de moda "el moto taxi¨...y muchas mas..
Bolivia son todas esas cosas y mucho mas...cosas que se vuelven tan cotidianas que se olvidan.

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